Often when we write about cheese or other food products, we focus on the newest, latest, undiscovered treasure. We look to small farmstead producers who bring us an exciting new twist on traditional cheeses, maybe a small American producer, or the latest sheep milk rarity from Portugal.

However, sometimes we forget about the magnificent time honored cheeses that are, and always have been ,right under our noses, widely available and consistently delicious time after time after time.Like the newcomers, they also have great stories behind them. But unlike the newcomers, they possess a history , a story of a people linked to their land and traditions, a way of life for an entire region. And Comte is very much one of those cheeses. You might say that to call Comte just another cheese is to say that the Beatles were just another rock band.

Comte (sometimes called Comte de Gruyere) is produced in the Franche-Comte region of France in the eastern Alps also known as the Jura region. It production dates back to the mid 1200’s and soon became one the first cooperative type food products, as the local farmers pooled their milk to make the large wheels, roughly 80 pounds and six or so inches high.( In order to use the name “Comte” on it’s label, it must meet the requirements for production, aging, quality, etc. set forth in the A.O.C guidelines designed to establish quality and production standards for food (and a  few other) products by the INAO (a French Governmental agency charged with regulating controlled name places.)

This milk, currently produced on over 3,000 family farms in the region, is then made into cheese at the communal cheese making houses, or “fruiteres”. The milk used in the production of Comte must come from the Montbeliarde or French Simmental (a small percentage) breed of cow, their diets consisting of fresh grasses in summer and hay during winter. Silage or other fermented feed is strictly prohibited. It is said that the diverse flora and climate of the region is responsible for the variety of flavors found in a single Comte, as well as differences found among all of the Comte cheeses produced by different fruiteres.Additionally each cow must have one hectare (roughly two acres) of grazing area, and the milk must be brought to the dairy that same day. The cheese must begin production no more than 24 hours after the milk has been collected to ensure thst the essence of flavors and freshness are not lost.There are over 150 fruiteres in the region, often located in the center of the village. Only raw milk may be used in the production of Comte cheese, and as such is responsible for the range of flavors that would not come from using pasteurized milk.

The cheeses are stored for about three weeks at the diaries, before being moved on to one of the area’s maturing cellars. One very well known and well respected aging facility of the region is the Fort Saint Antione, an old army barracks converted to a massive cheese cave in the Jura mountains. The maturing of the cheeses are overseen by Marcel Petite and Co, widely regarded as the finest affineurs(ripeners of cheese) of Comte cheese in the region. Aging must continue for four months, but may go as long as even 24 months in some cases. There are roughly twenty such maturing cellars where this process takes place. They are divided into “hot” and “cold” cellars, the cold where the longer aging generally takes place, and it is said that those cheeses will develop a greater range of deeper complex flavors. Having had the Comte Fort St. Antione, I certainly can agree.When aging is completed, the cheese are graded on a scale of 20, the criteria including taste, appearance, shape, and cracks or fissures in the cheese, among other factors. Those recieving a grade of 15/20 will wear the green band and can be called “Comte extra” , while those recieving a score of 12/15 recieve the brown band and are simply called “Comte” A score of less than 12 and the cheese can only be used in making spreads and other products and can not be labeled Comte.The flavor of Comte is at once sublime and very complex. One will experience the flavor and aromas of toast, hazelnuts, nut and nut oils: some have even said bananas and pineapple! The Comte Association has developed a “flavor wheel” of over 100 aromas and flavors found in their product. The texture is dense and creamy, yet never heavy or tiring on the palate. The color should be a pleasant straw yellow. with a brown rind, inedible from it’s repeated salt brushing and washing in a brine solution during it’s aging.It is a great melting cheese, used widely in the cooking of the  region in gratins, casseroles, soups etc. It will make a delicious grilled cheese or panini, and is great on a sandwich paired with smoked ham and grainy french mustard or unsalted butter. Many people will automatically pair cheese with fruit and nuts,b ut in my opinion Comte will pair better with these two than just about any other cheese, especially hazelnuts, almonds and dried fruits. Any leftovers will give a lift to your  omelette, or any other place you would melt a few ounces of cheese.Comte has and will be around forever, the story of a cheese , a people, a tradition, a way of life.And you thought it was just a cheese.This post was written by our newest addition Patrick Ambrosio

Patrick Ambrosio served as the cheesemonger for Dean and Deluca in Napa Valley CA. Returning to his home town of Long Island NY worked for many years as the cheese department manger for Bernard’s Market and Cafe, twice featured in the New York Times. Prior to working in cheese, Patrick was a professional chef for many years, including Executive Chef at both Tyler Hill Farm Country Inn, as well as Russian Hill Estate Winery in Sonoma County, CA.

How Specialty Foods can make our lives easier

We all appreciate ideas and shortcuts that save us time when entertaining. Here is a variation on the classic Italian arugula salad, topped with slices of Prosciutto di Parma and shaved Parmigian Reggiano Cheese. By giving the ingredients, seasoning, spices etc in a recipe a slight twist, you have a new dish that seems at once “classic” in it’s feel, but new in flavor.

In this case, standing in for the Prosciutto is Alpen Schinken, a dry cured and smoked ham of German origins. Unlike it’s Italian counterpart, it is smoked over hardwoods, the husky smokiness pairing nicely with the rich texture.

Like prosciutto is is also sliced thin to allow the flavors to open up more fully on the palate.

The Gruyere cheese further reinforces the alpine theme and flavors of the dish.

This is also an example of how a few well chosen specialty food items can make our lives easier when entertaining, giving us something new and tasty with very little work or prep time. 

I served this dish at an all red-wine dinner at Russian Hill Estate Winery in Sonoma County. Pairing red wine(or many wines  with salad) is truly a challenge, but the smoky richness of the ham, along with the dense creamy Gruyere tames the effect of tannins. The drizzle of the aged (and therefore not overly acidic) balsamic actually helped to tie the dish to the wine.

But a crisp white or even beer will match nicely with this fall season fist course.

Salad Of Bitter Greens with Alpen Schinken and Gruyere

A New Take on an Italian Classic

Serves 4

6 cups washed salad greens ( Arugula,  or a mix of arugula and endive, chicory, raddichio and escarole hearts)

8 slices Alpen Schinken

1/2 lb Gruyere ( other hard mountain types such as Abondance, Beaufort, Hoch Ybrig, Jura Montagne will work nicely also)

1/4 cup of Dijon Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

Salt and Fresh ground black pepper

Best Quality Balsamic Vinegar (the most aged you can afford) optional

In a large bowl toss salad greens with vinaigrette. Divide salad on to 4 plates. Drape two slices of ham over each serving, and using a cheese plane, shave thin slices of the Gruyere over the salad, letting them fall where they may.
Drizzle with aged balsamic, if using.

What’s easier than that!!

Dijon Vinaigrette

6 Tbsp. red wine or champagne vinegar

2 Tbsp Dijon mustard

Salt and Pepper

1/4 cup Olive or Canola Oil

In a small bowl with a whisk, combine first 3 ingredients well. Drizzle in oil while whisking to emulisy dressing.

This post was written by our newest addition Patrick Ambrosio

Patrick Ambrosio served as the cheesemonger for Dean and Deluca in Napa Valley CA. Returning to his home town of Long Island NY worked for many years as the cheese department manger for Bernard’s Market and Cafe, twice featured in the New York Times. Prior to working in cheese, Patrick was a professional chef for many years, including Executive Chef at both Tyler Hill Farm Country Inn, as well as Russian Hill Estate Winery in Sonoma County, CA.Welcome Patrick!

Curry and Cheddar? What? Sounds like someone went too far.  Boy, was I wrong.
The Thai Curry Cheddar from Coombe Castle Cheese Co. is really quite delicious.

Sure, myself and and my other cheesemonger cohorts usually turn up our noses at flavored cheese. No history. No AOC. No terrior. OK, all true.
But while I was tasting this great new specialty food product, it dawned on me that this could really work in a number of capacities quite well. The first one being cheese with cocktails. Normally a spirit based cocktail will overwhelm most cheese. Not a “clash” of flavors, mind you, but the vodka (or gin or rum etc) will just walk all over the cheese. You might as well serve peanuts. But the Thai Curry Cheddar will stand up nicely to your Gimlet or Cosmo or Vodka tonic, with the added bonus of dealing nicely with the high alcohol palate fatigue.

Or picture this: It’s a warm afternoon (yes we still have plenty of those left in September) and you would like to serve a nice crisp, tart appley-acidic Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or the down under, ripe with big tropical fruit flavors. Well you could go the store, get your self some chicken, cube it skewer it, and marinate it in some Thai Peanut Sauce, grill it etc etc (Im getting tired just writing it!) - or - you get yourself some of the Curry Cheddar slice it and serve, and it will play nicely with all that big tropical fruit flavor of the wine, all the while while making you look like some kind of genius for even finding the stuff in the first place, let alone having the good taste , vision and refined palate to serve the two together.

Or, melt it all over sweet potatoes, or maybe on some Soba noodle mixed in with some coconut milk and shrimp, kissed with a little Cilantro and lime for a change of pace noodle dish.

Oh yeah, and for all you cheese snobs out there that think you are too cool for flavored cheese  (I know you’re out there, because I was one too until about 15 minutes ago), please take note that the Coombe Castle Cheese co. is a truly artisan producer in very good company with the other members of the West County Cheese makers, an English organization devoted to quality cheese making. So there. Enjoy.

This post was written by our newest addition Patrick Ambrosio

Patrick Ambrosio served as the cheesemonger for Dean and Deluca in Napa Valley CA. Returning to his home town of Long Island NY worked for many years as the cheese department manger for Bernard’s Market and Cafe, twice featured in the New York Times. Prior to working in cheese, Patrick was a professional chef for many years, including Executive Chef at both Tyler Hill Farm Country Inn, as well as Russian Hill Estate Winery in Sonoma County, CA.

Welcome Patrick!

INGREDIENTS:

5 avocados - peeled, pitted, and mashed

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

3/4 minced green onion

1/2 cup minced fresh cilantro

salt and pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS:
Stir together the avocado and lemon juice in a serving bowl; add the green onion and cilantro; mix well. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately or store covered in refrigerator with avocado pits in the bowl to keep from browning.

Organic California Hass Avocados

These premium Organic California Hass Avocados are harvested daily from over 7,000 available acres. This ensures our customers get the freshest available avocados year around. Notice the difference in flavor between the supermarket-bought avocados that are kept in deep refrigeration for 2-3 weeks and our fresh avocados. Your order is not fulfilled until you place it. Once ordered the supplier will harvest your product directly from their orchards in sunny California. Why have refrigerated avocados stored for sometimes over a month, when you can have fresh, succulent, grove stand quality avocados straight from the source. The growers are of the highest caliber, enforcing strict guidelines and abiding by all federal and state regulatory agencies. These gift boxes contain 10 large, organic California Hass avocados. The shipments are carefully controlled throughout their journey to ensure maximum freshness at the point of delivery. Enjoy these in guacamole, salads, sandwiches, wraps, or just straight out of the box with salt and pepper.

Olivado Infused Avocado Oils

Olivado Extra Virgin Avocado Oil is quite simply the pressed juice of New Zealand’s finest quality ripe avocados. Olivado can call it Extra Virgin because its pressed at temperatures below 55F and contains an acid content of just 0.2%, far below the 1% required for the Extra Virgin designation. In addition, no heat or solvents are ever used to extract the oil from the fruit. Due to its high chlorophyll content, Avocado oil is very unstable and can degrade very quickly, so after extraction the Olivado subjects the oil to a unique and natural process that completely stabilizes it, retaining the goodness for up to 2 years in an uponened bottle. Among the healthiest infused oils, it has a high smoke point of 500F. Try their infused Extra Virgin Avocado Oils. Olivado’s special, deep infusion method creates intense flavor profiles. (Varieties sold separately.)

Olivado Chili Infused Avocado Oil

Taste buds awaken with this most passionate of oils. Glowing pepper spice without the burn; great with stir frys and pasta. Voted Best Chili Oil at 2003 Australian Fiery Foods Awards.

Olivado Basil Infused Avocado Oil

Illuminated delicate flavor and aroma of fresh, hand picked basil. Wonderful when used with pasta, seafood and chicken or simple bread dipping, or create your own, personal culinary masterpiece! Explore the endless possibilities.

Olivado Lemon Infused Avocado Oil

A light and zesty balance of elegant citrus flavors. Wonderful with salads, fish, chicken and baked goods or create your own, personal culinary masterpiece!

Olivado Rosemary Infused Avocado Oil

Earthy aromas create the perfect accent for red meats, salmon, potatoes, crusty sour dough, or create your own, personal culinary masterpiece!

While the origin of the word is not disputed (literally meaning lid), the origin of tapas as the feast of many small dishes is highly debated. Some claim tapas came to be when a Spanish king was instructed by his physician to eat many small meals a day. Others claim tapas were simply small dishes placed on top of wine glasses to keep flies away. Regardless of exact origin, tapas is a wonderful element of Spanish life, and one equally as enjoyable when recreated at home. Our assortment features essentials for a tapas feast. Included are 3 superb Spanish cheeses: Malagon with Rosemary, Mahon, and Murcia al Vino. For meat lovers: our wonderful spicy chorizo, and the essential, perfectly cured Serrano Ham. Next, the star of the sea: top quality Spanish tuna packed in olive oil. Also: Piquillo red peppers, Stuffed Manzanilla Olives, Banderillas and quince paste, each one providing an array of tastes and textures. Dessert: Fig Cake and authentic Spanish Turrone. Finally: No tapas would be complete without that Andalusian specialty of oven roasted almonds dusted with sea salt.

Whether it’s a sunny late afternoon or a cool evening, tapas is a wonderful way to sit back, enjoy some Spanish wines (or sherry), and feast on a myriad of flavors in the Spanish tradition.

Saratoga Wine & Food Festival delights oenophiles and epicures for three days and nights with dining, dancing to live music, decanting rare spirits, expert presentations about wine and food, live and silent auctions of luxuries, and a Grand Tasting of the world’s greatest grapes. The event begins September 4, 2008. igourmet.com will be at the Grand Tasting, September 6, 2008 along with 250+ wineries and over 25 restaurants. Please join me!

Cheese Sampling

Abbaye de Belloc , France , Unpasteurized Sheep’s Milk

Artisan Raw Milk Manchego , Spain , Unpasteurized Sheep’s Milk

Dorothea , The Netherlands , Pasteurized Goat’s Milk

Kerrygold Aged Cheddar , Ireland ,  Pasteurized Cow’s Milk

Regina Blu , Germany , Pasteurized Cow’s Milk

Beemster Classic Extra Aged Gouda , The Netherlands , Pasteurized Cow’s Milk

Lomo Curado , Spain ,  Cured Pork Loin

Canary Island Chocolate Banana Bites , Spain