Often when we write about cheese or other food products, we focus on the newest, latest, undiscovered treasure. We look to small farmstead producers who bring us an exciting new twist on traditional cheeses, maybe a small American producer, or the latest sheep milk rarity from Portugal.
However, sometimes we forget about the magnificent time honored cheeses that are, and always have been ,right under our noses, widely available and consistently delicious time after time after time.Like the newcomers, they also have great stories behind them. But unlike the newcomers, they possess a history , a story of a people linked to their land and traditions, a way of life for an entire region. And Comte is very much one of those cheeses. You might say that to call Comte just another cheese is to say that the Beatles were just another rock band.
Comte (sometimes called Comte de Gruyere) is produced in the Franche-Comte region of France in the eastern Alps also known as the Jura region. It production dates back to the mid 1200’s and soon became one the first cooperative type food products, as the local farmers pooled their milk to make the large wheels, roughly 80 pounds and six or so inches high.( In order to use the name “Comte” on it’s label, it must meet the requirements for production, aging, quality, etc. set forth in the A.O.C guidelines designed to establish quality and production standards for food (and a few other) products by the INAO (a French Governmental agency charged with regulating controlled name places.)
This milk, currently produced on over 3,000 family farms in the region, is then made into cheese at the communal cheese making houses, or “fruiteres”. The milk used in the production of Comte must come from the Montbeliarde or French Simmental (a small percentage) breed of cow, their diets consisting of fresh grasses in summer and hay during winter. Silage or other fermented feed is strictly prohibited. It is said that the diverse flora and climate of the region is responsible for the variety of flavors found in a single Comte, as well as differences found among all of the Comte cheeses produced by different fruiteres.Additionally each cow must have one hectare (roughly two acres) of grazing area, and the milk must be brought to the dairy that same day. The cheese must begin production no more than 24 hours after the milk has been collected to ensure thst the essence of flavors and freshness are not lost.There are over 150 fruiteres in the region, often located in the center of the village. Only raw milk may be used in the production of Comte cheese, and as such is responsible for the range of flavors that would not come from using pasteurized milk.
The cheeses are stored for about three weeks at the diaries, before being moved on to one of the area’s maturing cellars. One very well known and well respected aging facility of the region is the Fort Saint Antione, an old army barracks converted to a massive cheese cave in the Jura mountains. The maturing of the cheeses are overseen by Marcel Petite and Co, widely regarded as the finest affineurs(ripeners of cheese) of Comte cheese in the region. Aging must continue for four months, but may go as long as even 24 months in some cases. There are roughly twenty such maturing cellars where this process takes place. They are divided into “hot” and “cold” cellars, the cold where the longer aging generally takes place, and it is said that those cheeses will develop a greater range of deeper complex flavors. Having had the Comte Fort St. Antione, I certainly can agree.When aging is completed, the cheese are graded on a scale of 20, the criteria including taste, appearance, shape, and cracks or fissures in the cheese, among other factors. Those recieving a grade of 15/20 will wear the green band and can be called “Comte extra” , while those recieving a score of 12/15 recieve the brown band and are simply called “Comte” A score of less than 12 and the cheese can only be used in making spreads and other products and can not be labeled Comte.The flavor of Comte is at once sublime and very complex. One will experience the flavor and aromas of toast, hazelnuts, nut and nut oils: some have even said bananas and pineapple! The Comte Association has developed a “flavor wheel” of over 100 aromas and flavors found in their product. The texture is dense and creamy, yet never heavy or tiring on the palate. The color should be a pleasant straw yellow. with a brown rind, inedible from it’s repeated salt brushing and washing in a brine solution during it’s aging.It is a great melting cheese, used widely in the cooking of the region in gratins, casseroles, soups etc. It will make a delicious grilled cheese or panini, and is great on a sandwich paired with smoked ham and grainy french mustard or unsalted butter. Many people will automatically pair cheese with fruit and nuts,b ut in my opinion Comte will pair better with these two than just about any other cheese, especially hazelnuts, almonds and dried fruits. Any leftovers will give a lift to your omelette, or any other place you would melt a few ounces of cheese.Comte has and will be around forever, the story of a cheese , a people, a tradition, a way of life.And you thought it was just a cheese.This post was written by our newest addition Patrick Ambrosio
Patrick Ambrosio served as the cheesemonger for Dean and Deluca in Napa Valley CA. Returning to his home town of Long Island NY worked for many years as the cheese department manger for Bernard’s Market and Cafe, twice featured in the New York Times. Prior to working in cheese, Patrick was a professional chef for many years, including Executive Chef at both Tyler Hill Farm Country Inn, as well as Russian Hill Estate Winery in Sonoma County, CA.
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The contributors to this blog got together from a shared love of gourmet food, and especially cheeses. This is something that’s important to all of us for reasons of family traditions, heritage, and the simple way food enriches our lives. Working at igourmet.com, a gourmet food retailer, we often talk about food amongst ourselves, but we wanted to share these feelings with a larger community and hear their own views on what makes them passionate about great food.
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